3 Miles
Lille is an interesting city and is noted as being the beer capital of France. To be honest, France is not the first thing that comes to mind when we talk beer, yes wine and food but beer?
Lille has a fascinating history and it was the last city Spain owned before ceding to France in 1668. Sitting close to the border of Belgium, it has an exciting mix of Flemish, French, and Belgian cultures. Old Lille is a twisting maze of cobbled street and old buildings, then you arrive at the large open squares with beautiful buildings, a real mix of architecture. The history of beer in Lille can be dated back to the middle ages and is part of the culture of the city. Breweries like Motte Cordonnier, whose 370-year history makes it one of the oldest breweries in Northern France. Along with Célestin, another brewery that can trace its roots back to the sixteenth century.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, Lille counted 2,000 breweries within the city and surrounding area. But complications arose from brewing in Lille’s compact urban center as it was noisy and complicated to deliver the beer, so over time they just went away. Then the growth of mass-market beers in the mid-1900s forced some of Lille’s oldest breweries to sell or stop brewing. Célestin sold its brewery in 1956 and Stella Artois bought Motte Cordonnier in 1970. But now, things are a changing, there are over 250 breweries in the region and 35 within the metropolitan area of Lille.
So, lets start the tour and you will be treading over the same ground because bar opening times can be varied. I have tried to organise the walk so the bars are open as some don’t open until late afternoon, so please check before you start.
1. 3 Brasseurs Lille
22 Pl. de la Gare, 59800 Lille, France
The history of 3 Brasseurs in Lille, France, begins with the opening of a microbrewery and restaurant in 1986 by three brothers, Tom, Aubin, and Octave Caluches. This is the first and oldest of the chain and they still brew beer onsite and match it with their food.
Now walk in front of Gare de Lille Flanders Train Station along the Avenue Le Corbusier and just before the entrance to Westfield Euralille turn left down Rue des Canonniers pass the bus stops to our next stop. The Gare de Lille Flanders opened in 1842 as the Gare de Lille but got renamed in 1993 when Lille Europe Station opened. The station front is the old front from Paris’ Gare du Nord and was dismantled then reassembled in Lille at the end of the 19th Century. An extra storey as well as the large clock was added to the original design.
2. Hein
13 Pl. Saint-Hubert, 59800 Lille, France
Hein is a franchise of Brique House and is a new sort of estaminet. The beer choice is good including local as well as beers from further afield.
Exiting Hein it is now a bit of a walk to our establishment. Head back to the main road right in front of you and turn right down Rue des Canonniers. Continue to the end turning left into Rue des Urbanistes. Shortly turning left again down Place aux Bleuets which continues into Rue Saint-Jacques. Then it’s a right turn down Rue des Tours and second left along Rue d’Ostende. Quick right at the end to our next stop.
3. Beerchope
18 Rue de Gand, 59800 Lille, France
This recently changed hands in 2023 and the new owner is just as knowledgeable about beers. They specialize in beers from the region so don’t expect to find anything mainstream. They offer a tasting menu of 4 beers which is a good place to start. They get really busy so the best time to go is just after opening or mid-week.
Turn left when exiting the bar and head down Place Louise de Bettignies then turning right up Ave du Peuple Belge to our next bar.
4. Brussels Beer Project
3 Av. du Peuple Belge, 59800 Lille, France
This is a piece of Belgium in France. Showcasing nearly 20 beers from Brussels and the pizzas are just wonderful.
Now exit left and walk down the Ave du Peuple Belge a short while turning left into a small alleyway. At the end is the remnant of a very old wall, solitary in the heart of the urban bustle. Its charm is magnified by its historical link as a vestige of the Saint-Pierre water mill, once a water provider for the Comtesse hospice. Founded in the 13th century by Joan of Flanders, this site is a captivating witness to a significant era, intriguingly weaving the threads of past and present. Turn right down Rue de la Monnaie then a left just before Carrefour City down another alleyway to the Cathedral. Walk through the Cathedral grounds to our next stop.
5. Beer Square
3 Pl. Gilleson, 59800 Lille, France
This place can have some strange opening times, it took me three visits before it was open. They have around 20 taps and there is a kitchen if you need some sustenance before moving on. Exit the pub and turning to your right head down Rue des Trois Molletts and you will reach our next stop.
6. La Capsule
25 Rue des trois Mollettes, 59800 Lille, France
La Capsule is a small bar and has up to 28 keg lines as well as a couple of beers on cask. Established in 2008, they have become a go-to for all visitors to Lille. There is no proper food options but the bar snacks consist of sausage or cheese platters are well worth it. Now walk down Rue Doudin to our next port of call.
7. Bierbuik
19 Rue Royale, 59000 Lille, France
Don’t be put off by the Barbie-pink building. When you walk in you might see a smiling, goateed man with forearms tatted with a fork and knife. This is Michelin-star chef Florent Ladeyn, second place finalist on the inaugural season of Top Chef France and founder of Bierbuik. Ladeyn has a ceaseless quest to flip Flemish food on its head with moreish street food and to brew ales with locally foraged ingredients. The twice-fried beef fat frites with four different sauces are a must. Where else in the world can you get Michelin style street food and a beer?
Now turn right down Rue Royale a short distance to our next stop.
8. Le Lobby
10 Rue Royale, 59800 Lille, France
With nearly 50 beers on tap this place will be an eye opener. You’ll also find something to nibble like tapenade, sausage, popcorn and spicy hot nachos. Mehdi, who spent ten years rue Masséna before landing here in 2014, is the originator of the establishment. It is really an atypical place with its long corridor that leads to the bar and its small car in the center of the establishment.
Turning left and continue down Rue Royale. At the end turn sharp right again on to Rue de la Barre and quickly left in to Rue des Bouchers. At the end there is a weird junction of 5 roads, basically head straight across and walk down Rue de L’Hôpital Militaire and the next stop.
9. Hôpi
75 Rue de l’Hôpital Militaire, 59800 Lille, France
This is a small but excellent brewpub in the heart of Lille with up to 14 keg lines. They have a mixture of their own, some collabs and guests. You are greeted with a smile and a chat plus the beer flights are a must.
Turn right and walk to the end of the road turning right down Rue Nationale. We walk along this road for a short while crossing over the junction, Place de Strasbourg, until we reach a road on our left called, Rue Alphonse Mercier. Turn down here to our next stop.
10. Le Bar des Six Roses
26 Rue des Stations, 59800 Lille, France
Now we are outside the main tourist areas of Lille, the bars become more local and this is typical here. It serves a good range of beer and up to 18 taps. Depending on who is working behind the bar the music can be varied from heavy rock to mainstream pop. Don’t let that put you off, the beer is reasonably priced and the atmosphere fun when busy.
Exit the bar and turn right up Rue des Stations. You know you are heading in the right direction because you will be walking the wrong way down a one-way street. Carry on to Rue Meurein which we turn left down and walk to the end. Turn left again on to Rue Leon Gambetta and on your right is our next stop.
11. Beer’s Factory
219 Rue Léon Gambetta, 59000 Lille, France
This was a bar but that never opened has been transformed into a chic bar which serves homemade snacks and platters, the cheese board is to die for. The main choice of beer is Bon Secours when I was there and they seem to have a good range of their beers on tap.
Exit and turn right continuing along Rue Leon Gambetta and you will walk past Place de la Republique. Turning right down Bd de la Liberte to the next port of call.
12. Le Lovibond
169 Bd de la Liberté, 59000 Lille, France
This is a brilliant restaurant during the day and a great stop for lunch if you are visiting the Art Museum across the road. In the evening it turns into a great small bar with 8 beers on tap. A true locals bar with a fantastic atmosphere.
Turning left up Rue Baptiste Monnoyer then left down Rue Jacquard get us to the next destination.
13. Raising Hops
24 Rue Jeanne Maillotte, 59800 Lille, France
This place can be hard to find and if you get there before opening you will be forgiven that it looks closed for good. It is very new and with up to 12 taps, if offers a good selection of beer and really deserves a bigger crowd.
Head straight across and down Rue du Barbier Maes and the next pub.
14. B148 – The Place to Beer
148 Rue du Molinel, 59800 Lille, France
It might look small and unassuming from the outside but the name says it all with over 20 taps serving a good selection of beer. B148 comes from the fact that they have 148 different beers available. When I was there it as a flat rate of 7 euros a beer.
This is the end of our little tour of some of the best small bars in Lille. There are certainly plenty that I have missed and the next time I visit Lille I will create a Lille part 2 beer walk.