Newcastle – Not the usual suspects

Distance: 5km or about 3 miles

Our walk starts outside the Newcastle station which was officially opened on the 29th August 1850 replacing three separate stations operated by the Newcastle and Carlise Railway, Newcastle and Darlington Railway and Newcastle and Berwick Railway. It is now a Grade I listed building.

In October 1906, a new bridge was opened, the King Edward VII Bridge, crossing the Tyne to the south-west of the station. Before this, trains had entered Newcastle from the south via the High Level Bridge which then meant they had to reverse in order to continue their journey. The train shed was one of the first to be designed and built in Britian using curved wrought iron ribs to support the arched roof. The curved web plates were rolled using bevelled rollers and was estimated to have saved 14% on the cost.

Now lets head to our first pub. Turn right outside the station and follow Neville Street turning right down Westgate Road (Follow the signs to High Level Bridge). At the end, turn right again and walk across High Level Bridge. The bridge was designed by Robert Stevenson and uses 5,000 tons of iron to help form a rail link to Scotland. Apart from carrying trains it also has a carriageway for vehicles and pedestrians which generated additional income. This is another Grade I listed structure.

If you look left, the first bridge you see is the Queen Elizabeth II bridge which carries the Metro across the Tyne, then the second bridge is the King Edward VII bridge which was built to ease congestion at Newcastle Station.

Once across the bridge turn a slight left up Wellington Street to our first pub.

1. Microbus

Arch 2 Wellington St, Gateshead NE8 2AJ

Microbus - Gateshead

It has six hand pulls, 14 taps and a resident dog, Harriet (The Boss). It was formerly the sleazy snack bar in Lindisfarne’s the Fog on the Tyne. Opened in 2022, they’ve won CAMRA Gateshead pub of the year 3 times, Tyneside and Northumberland Pub of the year twice and have appeared in the Good Beer Guide every year since 2024.

Turn left when leaving and walk a short distance then just before the railway arch turn left down Hills Street to our next pub.

2. Station East

Hills St, Gateshead NE8 2AS

Station East - Gateshead

In 2015, Hadrian and Border Brewery bought the site at auction. It took nearly two years to bring the property to a condition ready to pour beer. This was due to the building becoming detached from the back wall, which happened to be the embankment of the adjacent railway track that runs above the pub.

It was the former Gateshead East Station and Railway Hotel, the station closed in 1981 but you can read more about this former station here:

http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/g/gateshead_east/

Exit and turn right underneath the railway down Hills Street to our next pub.

3. The Central

Half Moon Ln, Gateshead NE8 2AN

The Central - Gateshead

It is sometimes nicknamed ‘The Coffin’ because the building is long and narrow. A Grade II listed building run by the Head of Steam group. The main attraction is not the bar but the wonderful buffet, which is closed when quiet, but you can ask to view it. There are up to 14 hand pulls and the interior has been fitted out circa 1900.

Initially the building was a wine merchants and became a hotel around 1890, probably to serve the railway and trams. It was one of around 33 bustling bars that once lined the high street here before the area was demolished to make way for the new flyover into Newcastle in the 60’s and 70’s.

The bar was featured as a location in the 1969 file, Women in Love and in 2010 the Head of Steam group invested £1.4m into the refit which we can appreciate today.

When leaving, turn left and follow Half Moon Lane back to Wellington Street and now head back across High Level Bridge. Head straight up St Nicholas Street passing St Nicholas Cathedral on your right.

The cathedral has been part of Newcastle for over 900 years. It has seen some sights during its time such as:

  • 1644, the mayor of Newcastle imprisoned Scottish soldiers in the Lantern tower to prevent its destruction.
  • 1741 saw the Thomlison library open as an extension to the cathedral.
  • 1805 Admiral Lord Collingwood saves the day at Trafalgar, and he was both married and baptised in the Cathedral.
  • 1865 Sir Gilbert Scott underpinned the tower and rebuilt the crown due to building work close by which caused the tower to start leaning.
  • 1918 the Cathedral bells rang for Armistice Day, and it is the only Cathedral in England to ring a full peal (a nonstop sequence of over 5,000 changes that normally lasts around 3 hours).

Now turn right down Mosley Street then left up Grey Street and continue along to Monument. Turn right down Blackett Street then a quick left up Northumberland Street. At the end turn right passing the Church of Saint Thomas the Martyr to our next stop.

4. The Town Mouse

11 St Mary’s Pl, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 7PG

The Town Mouse - Newcastle

If you reach the Spoon’s, then you have gone too far and turn around. The place is not obvious at first so keep looking.
Opened in 2017, it is one of Newcastle’s newest micropubs serving up to 6 changing beers. It is a five-time winner of Newcastle’s pub of the year, which can’t be bad.

Exit and turn left back down past the church, then turn left down Percy Street for a short walk before turning right up St Thomas’ Street and our next stop.

5 . Mean Eyed Cat

1 St Thomas’ St, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 4LE

Mean-eyed Cat - Newcastle

This place is another one that is easy to miss. A former newsagents, this one roomed pub opened in 2018 and has up to 6 hand pulls and 8 keg lines. Look for a building that resembles a run-down surf shack, and you have found it. They aim to serve a good range of beer from light IPA’s to strong stouts, so there will always be something on to please everyone.

Now head back to Percy Street turning right as if you are heading back into town. Continue down this road until you reach Blackett Street on your left. Head down this street passing Old Eldon Square on your left.

Old Eldon Square is the site of the city’s war memorial and Remembrance Day commemorations. Named after John Scott, 1st Earl of Eldon, a prominent local figure. Born in Newcastle in 1751, the son of a coal owner, he later became of lawyer and politician. He even held the position of Lord Chancellor of Great Britian twice!

The War Memorial was designed by Charles Leonard Hartwell and unveiled by Earl Haig in 1923.

On the east side of the square is our next stop.

6. The Wobbly Duck

4, Old Eldon Square, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 7JG

The Wobbly Duck - Newcastle

They opened their doors in 2021 and has a rustic feel. A sister pub to the Old Fox in Felling and Beer Street in Newcastle.
Now head back to the main street turning left towards the Monument Metro then turn right passing Grey’s Monument. The monument was built in 1938 in recognition of Charles Grey, 2nd Earl Grey, Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1830 to 1834 and the passing of the Great Reform Act 1832. The act reorganised the system of parliamentary constituencies and increased the number of those eligible to vote.

Now walk down Grainger Street passing an enormous building on your right which houses Grainger Market. Opened in 1835, it replaced older markets that were demolished during the construction of Grey Street. Home to over 100 businesses, the Grade I building is a sight to see.

Take time a go inside to find the Marks and Spencer Original Penny Bazaar, this is the last surviving example of the Penny Bazaar shops which gave rise to what we now call M&S. It is also the world’s smallest M&S store!

I am sure that Leed’s will have something to say about this because their M&S store in Kirkgate Market is considered to be the first one opened by Michael Marks in 1884. But I don’t think that the one in Leeds is still operated by M&S which makes Newcastle the oldest M&S store.

Their slogan at the time was ‘Don’t ask the price, it’s a penny’.

The partnership with Thomas Spencer came later with the first proper M&S opening in Manchester. Now carry on walking down Grainger Street to our final stop at Newcastle Train Station.

7. The Centurion

Central Station, Neville Street, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 5DG

The Centurion Bar - Newcastle

Built in 1893, this was the luxurious waiting lounge for first-class passengers travelling through Newcastle. In the 1960’s, British Transport Police the lounge became a collection of prison cells and suffered years of damage and neglect.

In 2002, it was restored and reopened with the major feature being its exquisite tiling from Burmantofts Pottery of Leeds estimated to be worth £3.8m. Unfortunately, the ceramic bar was lost but don’t let that be your only disappointment, the interior is stunning and certainly worth buying a beer and resting your feet after today’s walk.