Distance – 2.5 miles
This walk takes you from the Strand and one of the most famous hotels in the world to the heart of Soho. You will see some interesting sights on the way and for this walk, I have tried to slim down the notes to make it quicker to read.
So, we start at the junction of the Strand and Waterloo bridge looking east towards Aldwych.
A competition was held in 1900 to design the buildings along Aldwych and in the end several architects built the buildings you see today on a monumental scale. Find the building, One Aldwych, which was originally called Inveresk House and was built for the Morning Post newspaper in 1907. Importantly, it was one of the first steel framed structures in London. Opposite and right in front of you once stood the Strand Musik Hall established in 1864 and then renamed the Lyceum Theatre until 1868 when it took the name of the Gaiety Theatre. The theatre had a major influence on the development of the modern musical comedy, such as pantomimes and operettas. Below is a picture of the theatre so you can compare it to today.
Now walk past this building keeping it on your left and you should see some arched windows on the left. This is all that remains of the old theatre and it was originally the theatre restaurant and is now called Marconi House. Turn left up Montreal Place pass the Indian Consulate where there is a bust of Jawaharlal Nehru, an Indian independence activist and the first Prime Minister of India (1947-1964).
Now in front of you stands the Wardolf Hotel named after the famous millionaire William Wardolf. It was hoped that the name would affix great prestige onto the building, a sort of early social media marketing ploy. It was nearly flattened in WW2 when a flying bomb detonated at the junction with Kingsway. The explosion crumpled two double-decker buses and the hotel staffed rushed out to help.
You can read more about this historic hotel here.
Turn right keeping the hotel on your left then left up Dury Lane a short while before turning left again down Russell Street. You are now walking past the Theartre Royal Dury Lane situated on your left. A theatre has stood here since 1663 and this is the forth incarnation. Notice the ornate iron lamp holders between the coupled square pillars and admire the delicate work that went into making them. Now take a look at the four lampposts on this street, they are gas lit and now Grade-II protected.
Lets grab a drink.
1. Marquess of Anglesey
39 Bow St, London WC2E 7AU
Built on the site of Edward Miles’ Coffee House, one of the first in London which opened in 1663. It was first licensed in 1752 as the Barley Mow, then The Green Man from 1775. In 1815 it received its current name after William Henry Paget (Then Earl of Uxbridge) who was elevated for his exploits at the Battle of Waterloo. When as a Cavalry Commander, he lost his leg to one of the last cannon shots fired on the 18th June 1815.
Reputedly, he was near to the Duke of Wellington at the time and exclaimed, “By God Sir, I’ve lost my leg!”, to which Wellington replied, “By God Sir, so you have!” The pub survived the wars and if you look closely outside you might see shrapnel damage on the building.
Turn right up Bow Street passing the famous Bow Street Police Station.
In 1881, it opened as a purpose built joint Police Station and Magistrates Court replacing the two separates buildings at 33-34 and 3-4 Bow Street. In 1908, following a Suffragette demonstration at the Houses of Parliament, Emmiline and Christabel Pankurst as well as Mrs Drummond stood in the dock here on charges of breaching the peace. Christabel Pankhurst became the first trained female lawyer to cross examine a witness in court here.
So other notable events are:
- 1967 – PC Norwell Roberts starte work here as the Met’s first black police officer.
- 1968 – The Krays Twins appeared in the dock charged with two counts of murder.
- 1981 – PC Lee-Jane Yates becomes the first female Chinese officer here.
- 1992 – Operations closed here and were moved to Charing Cross.
- 2006 – The Magistrates Court shut its doors having operations continuously for 266 years.
Turn right into Long Acre and in the distance you will see an impressive building, the Freemasons Hall. There has been a Masonic Hall here since 1775 with the present building being the third and erected between 1927 and 1933.
Our next pub is now close by.
2. The Sun Tavern
66 Long Acre, London WC2E 9JD
A Grade-II listed building and rebuilt in 1897, the interior is worth a look. A pub has stood here since 1718 servicing the industry that was situated along Long Acre. This part of London was the center of coach building in 18th Century and at the beginning of the 20th Century there were 41 buildings on Long Acre associated with transport. Samuel Pepys was said to have purchased a coach from a manufacturer here at the cost of £53 (about £13,000 in today’s money). As motor cars replaced horses, so did Long Acre change and it became home to the motor trade building bodies. Three doors from the pub was the Merryweather Factory who manufactured Fire Engine for London. The last Fire Engine rolled off the line in the 1950’s.
Exit the pub and turn right, then left up Arne Street and follow this round as it turns left into Shelton Street. Head straight across Endell Street and our next stop.
3. Crown and Anchor
22 Neal St, London WC2H 9PS
This old Watney Combe pub was rebuilt in 1904 and the original signage can still be seen. There is really nothing special to write about this place apart from it has a good choice of cask ales.
So, continue along Shelton Street and turn left down Mercer Street. When you reach the end, look up to your left and there is a ghost sign confirming the area of Long Acre as a centre of coach building. The Connaught Coachworks and Hatchett & Co were established in 1770 being one of the first on Long Acre. By the early 20th century, they were making luxury cars and areo engines. More than a third of the buildings on Long Acre supplied the coach and motor trade. Between 1834 and 1874, 40 years saw an increase of 336,000 carriages paying duty to use the roads.
However, by the 1930’s the motor trade had all but deserted Long Acre and market traders started to move in with the growth of nearby Covent Garden. A famous publisher got into the act and their buildings came to dominate the street, Odhams Press. They published magazines such as Ideal Home, Horse and Hound, The Daily Herald, Sunday People and Daily Express.
Turn right and walk along Long Acre before turning left down Conduit Court. A sharp right and left into Lazenby Court takes you to our next pub.
4. The Lamb and Flag
33 Rose St, London WC2E 9EB
A Grade-II listed pub with no frills such as a jukebox or gambling machines. The upstairs dining room is named after the poet John Dryden, whose satirical writing made him many enemies and as a result he was brutally beaten by thugs in the alley you walked down outside in 1679. If you are good at reading latin then some of the inscriptions on the wooden beams tell the tale. It is also rumored that Charles Dickens drank here when he lived in nearby Catherine Street. Also, Karl Marx is said to have been a regular.
First licensed in 1623, it could be the oldest such premises in Covent Garden and one of the very few timber-framed buildings in London. However, much of what you see is Georgian and the main frontage from 1958. Originally called ‘The Bucket of Blood’ because of the bare-fist fighting matches that took place here. The name has religious overtones with the Lamb coming from the gospel of St. John; ‘Behold the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sins of the world‘ and the flag is that of St. George.
Other famous patrons include the original cast of Oliver from the 1960’s. Peter Cook and Dudley Moore with the Barry McKenzie cartoon strip starting life in this pub.
Exit through the front of the pub and turn right onto Rose Street following this round back to Floral Street.
At the junction with Garrick Street, the strange church like building opposite ‘Le Garrick’ was originally a mission house and school. Built in 1860 by Arthur Bloomfield, who’s other works include the Royal College of Music and the Bank of England. He later rebuilt the nave of St. Saviours Parish Church (Now Southwark Cathedral) and was highly regarded as a restorer. His 1898 restoration of Salisbury Cathedral’s spire was conducted in the most conservative way possible. In 1888, the mission and school became the Heaton Butler and Bayne stained glass works making windows for Westminster Abbey amongst others.
Now look up at the entrance to Le Garrick restaurant and you will see what looks like a blank advertising sign above the door. This is a remnant of what we called lost pubs and they can be seen all other the UK once you know what you are looking for. What this was called, I do not know as there is no trace other than a PH on an old map.
Now turn right walking up Garrick Street, straight over into Upper St Martin’s Lane and turn left down West Street.
Pass The Ivy Restaurant (celeb spotting opportunity) and on you right is a plain looking building. This was the West Street Chapel, built in the early 18th century for French Protestant refugees until 1743 when John Wesley took over the lease and it became the first Methodist Chapel in London.
Continue along West Street to Cambridge Circus and the fabulous Palace Theatre with its terracotta tiling built in 1888-90 for D’Oyly Carte. Pass to the right-hand side of the theatre down Moor Street and Romily Street to the end. Turn right up Dean Street to our next stop.
5 . The French House
49 Dean St, London W1D 5BG
Originally 16th century but rebuilt in 1936/7 by Alfred W Blomfield, who specialised in pub architecture. An iconic Soho pub and the landlady, Lesley Lewis, celebrated 34 years here in 2023. It is one of the best spots for striking up conversations with stangers. Wine outsells beer here and it is claimed that they sell more Ricard here than any other UK establishment. Don’t be amazed if you see celebs drinking wine here and the British Media outside waiting for that photo opportunity.
In WW2, it was the unofficial headquarters of the Free French. It is said that on VE night in 1945, more sophisticated revellers headed here as the red wine was constantly flowing. It also has had its fair share of famous patrons including Dylan Thomas, Francis Bacon, Peter O’Toole to name a few.
Now let’s grab a bite to east, so turn right and continue up Dean Street before turning left down Meard Street. This is the most rewarding of all of Soho’s streets as most of the buildings date from circa 1732 and it is recognised by English Heritage as a place of significant Georgian architecture. At No.7 was possible the streets most famous resident, Sebastian Horsley and this infamous sign hung from his door for many years.
Turn right up Wardour Street and we pass on our right the location of the famous Marquee Club at 100 Wardour Street. They are now flats and a restaurant. Keep walking until at number 199 is possibly the best Salt Beef sandwich in London at Tongue and Brisket.
Once you have eaten, turn left and continue up Wardour Street crossing over Oxford Street into Berners Street. Turn left onto Eastcastle Street and our next stop.
6. The Champion
12-13 Wells St, London W1T 3PA
Another Grade-II listed pub and refitted in the 1950’s with the addition of the stained glass windows. There is nothing special about this place but its away from the bustle of Soho and generally quiet.
Head across the road and down Wells Street, then back over Oxford Street into Berwick Street. Walking down here we pass the historic Green Man which gained its license in 1736, the present Grade-II listed building dates from 1895. On this occasions we shall continue down Berwick Street to our next pub.
7. The Blue Posts
22 Berwick St, London W1F 0QA
The historic Watney’s signage is fabulous and popping into this small, cosy corner bar is a nostalgic escape from the bustle of life outside. An earthy old-school boozer with an attractive Queen Anne frontage that dates from 1914. Originally called the Three (then two) Blue Posts, the name is thought to come from the blue bollards that marked the taxi ranks of sedan chairs. There is a Westminster Green plaque on the wall outside which I will leave to you to read. It was also attacked and destroyed by a brontosaurus in the 1925 movie, Lost World because the animators used to drink in the pub!
Head straight out, across the road and down Broadwick Street. Continue past the John Snow pub and you will see a water pump named the ‘Broad Street Pump’.
John Snow discovered that the outbreak of Cholera in 1854 was due to contaminated water and the original source came from this water pump. Although he could not conclusively prove it, his studies of the pattern of the disease were convincing enough to persuade the local council to disable the well pump by removing its handle (force rod). This action has been commonly credited as ending the outbreak, but Snow observed that the epidemic may have already been in rapid decline.
Turn back on yourself and then right down Lexington Street, then right up Beak Street to the next stop.
8. The Sun and 13 Cantons
21 Great Pulteney St, London W1F 9NG
Another Grade-II listed pub and it must be one of the most unusual pub names in London. Switzerland had 12 cantons in the 1880’s, cantons being counties or regions, and this pub become the unofficial thirteenth. The connection with Switzerland in that there was a large Swiss watch making community in this area of Soho at the time.
Now continue down Great Pulteney Street, turning left down Brewer Street and then right into Great Windmill Street and our final destination.
9. The Lyric
37 Great Windmill St, London W1D 7LT
This was originally two pubs, The Windmill and The Ham which merged in the mid 18th century to form the Windmill and Ham. One of the best pubs in Soho for cask ale with 10 hand pumps in operation. Pub grub is simple fare, just what a proper boozer should be.
This is the end of our Strand to Soho adventure and I hope it was enjoyable. Please feel free to use one of my other routes and spread the word.
